At the end of autumn, a storm descends upon the Place Contrescarpe. Seeking refuge, Hemingway and others take shelter in Café des Amateurs, a bar frequented by intoxicated individuals. The café is located in the bustling market of rue Mouffetard, at the entrance of the Place Contrescarpe. Hemingway recollects how in the summer, one could hear waste being emptied into horse-drawn tanks, resulting in an unpleasant smell. Nevertheless, Café des Amateurs never underwent this process and retained a constant odor of waste and alcohol.
Hemingway ponders the melancholy that envelops the city during winter, with the absence of rooftops on the tall white houses and the darkness of the streets. He traverses the dimly lit streets of Paris until reaching his hotel. Passing by Lycee Henri Quatre and the ancient church of St-Etienne-du-Mont, he eventually arrives at a delightful café, Place St-Michel. Hemingway describes it as a welcoming, clean, and warm environment. He orders a café au lait and begins to write. To align with the current bleak and cold setting, he decides to write about a chilly day in Michigan. However, his attention is diverted by the entrance of a captivating woman into the café. Believing she is awaiting someone, he chooses not to incorporate her into his story. He claims her as his own, stating that she now belongs to him, just as he belongs to his notebook and pencil.
As Hemingway becomes engrossed in his writing, he eventually looks up and realizes that the woman has vanished. To celebrate completing his story, he indulges in oysters and white wine. He begins to make cheerful plans, contemplating a visit to a place where snow falls and...
Upon Hemingway and his spouse's return to Paris, Hemingway takes note of the city's newfound beauty. Winter has settled in, and Hemingway has learned to accept the bleak skies and leafless trees. The hotel he works at now boasts an enchanting ambiance after his time spent in the mountains. He vividly describes the petite tangerine-like oranges he enjoys while working and the soothing kirsch he indulges in to unwind after long days. Reflecting on his method to overcome writer's block, he shares, "I would stand and gaze at the rooftops of Paris, reminding myself, 'Do not fret. You have always written before, and you will write now. All you need todo is craft a single genuine sentence. Write the truest sentence you know'" . Whenever Hemingway found himself writing in a convoluted or artificial manner, he would discard his work and instead pen down the first truthful and declarative sentence that came to mind. During breaks from writing, he allowed his subconscious to work its magic, refraining from conscious contemplation of his writing.
Hemingway takes a leisurely stroll to the Jardin du Luxembourg to admire the artwork of Cezanne and other Impressionists. In case the lights are dimmed at the Luxembourg, he enjoys meandering through the gardens to pay a visit to Gertrude Stein's apartment. Stein's abode is described as "the grand studio adorned with magnificent paintings" . Stein possesses captivating eyes and a distinctive German-Jewish facial structure . She resides with her amiable and petite companion, who possesses luscious dark hair. Hemingway fondly recalls his conversations with Stein, sharing, "They seemed to appreciate our presence... treating us as if we were well-behaved, promising children. I felt forgiven for being in love and married... and when my wife extended an invitation for tea, they graciously accepted" .
During one evening, when Stein and her companion visit Hemingway's apartment, Stein expresses admiration for all of his stories except "Up in Michigan." She refers to it as "inaccrochable," elucidating, "That means it is like a painting that a artist creates but cannot hang" .
On a particular evening, Stein and her companion pay a visit to the apartment where Hemingway resides. During their conversation, Stein expresses her fondness for all of Hemingway's stories except for "Up in Michigan." She describes it as "inaccrochable," explaining that it resembles a painting created by an artist but cannot be hung on a wall. Stein emphasizes the importance for a writer to never produce anything that is inaccrochable. The group engages in further discussion, and Stein
extends an invitation for Hemingway to visit her apartment on 27 rue de Fleurus.
As Hemingway continues to have more conversations with Stein, he realizes that her happiness is dependent not only on writing every day but also on receiving recognition for her writing. Hemingway wonders why Stein requires such recognition, considering her ability to charm everyone she encounters, regardless of their position as a critic or otherwise. On another occasion, Stein enlightens Hemingway on matters of sexuality, stating that he lacks education in that regard and harbors prejudice against homosexuality. Hemingway attempts todefend himself by explaining the necessity, in his upbringing, to be prepared to kill another man and be resolute in doing so in order to avoid interference. Stein counters by expressing pity for such men, asserting that they are tormented by desires and can never find true happiness unless they actively corrupt others. She critiques the restrictive and violent nature of this prescriptive masculinity.
Hemingway develops a routine of visiting the apartment at 27 rue de Fleurus, where he meets with Miss Stein, as he fondly refers to her. In these encounters, Miss Stein eagerly listens to his stories about his travels to political conferences and his knowledge of Canadian news. However, she only shows interest in the cheerful aspects of the world, avoiding discussions about the harsh realities .
To distract himself from work, Hemingway indulges in reading the works of authors like Aldous Huxley and D.H. Lawrence. Miss Stein questions his choice of literature, advising him to only read what is genuinely excellent or what is unapologetically bad . She disapproves of Hemingway reading the works of deceased authors and instead recommends Marie Belloc Lowndes' book, The Lodger, underscoring how she focuses more on the author rather than their literary creations. Moreover, she tends to favor those who praise her own writing or have contributed to her success, evident in her dislike for Ezra Pound due to a mere incident involving a chair .
In another anecdote, Miss Stein experiences car trouble with her Model T Ford and takes it to a mechanic who prioritizes other vehicles over hers. Hemingway conveys that after Miss Stein's complaint, the
mechanic is reprimanded by the garage owner, who refers to them all as a lost generation . Miss Stein applies this label, the lost generation, not only to Hemingway but also to others who fought in the war, asserting that they lack respect for anything and ultimately indulge in self-destructive behavior. Observing a statue of Marsha Ney on his way home, Hemingway feels a sense of companionship with the lonely figure, reflecting that every generation has experienced some form of lostness. While he appreciates Miss Stein's kindness, he disregards her talk of the lost generation and dismisses all the negative and simplistic labels .
Shakespeare and Company is a place where Hemingway frequently borrows books, serving as a rental library. Hemingway paints a vivid pictureof it, describing it as a warm and cheerful spot with a large stove during winter, filled with tables and shelves of books. The storefront displays new books, while the walls are adorned with photographs of famous writers, both living and dead. The bookstore is managed by a woman named Sylvia Beach, who captivates Hemingway with her youthful energy and vibrant personality. Despite his financial constraints, Sylvia allows him to borrow as many books as he wishes, even though she had no reason to trust that he would pay the fines.
Among the books Hemingway borrows are novels by Turgenev, D.H. Lawrence, and Dostoevsky. Sylvia extends an invitation for Hemingway and his wife to have dinner, leaving him eager to share the discovery of this wonderful rental library with his spouse. His wife insists that he promptly return and pay for the borrowed books. The couple daydreams about an enchanting evening, strolling down rue de Seine, indulging in a drink at a new café, and savoring a delightful meal. Hemingway's wife considers their find fortunate, not only providing them access to an extensive library but also giving them a reason to venture out of the house. Hemingway agrees, acknowledging their consistent luck. In hindsight, he regrets not taking the precaution of knocking on wood.
On the banks of the Seine, there is a small bookstore that specializes in American novels. Most of the books sold there are considered cheap
and disposable, only meant to provide temporary entertainment for boat travelers. The woman who manages the shop doesn't hold much regard for English books and sells them at low prices, believing they are poorly bound. When Hemingway asks what happens to the books that aren't purchased, he is informed that they are simply thrown away.
Hemingway often takes walks along the quais, seeking mental clarity after a day of writing. He finds solace in observing people engaged in activities that they understand, as it helps him gather his thoughts. During one of these walks, he discovers a prime fishing spot on the Seine. At the end of an island, there is a small park right by the water's edge. The area beneath the bridge is popular among fishermen, who catch the best goujon there. Hemingway enjoys eating goujon at an open-air restaurant called La Peche Miraculeuse, where he would buy a book from the bookstalls and a bottleof wine to enjoy while observing the fishermen. He admires their fishing skills and is glad to see men bringing home some fritures to their families, finding their presence amidst the city's hustle and bustle comforting.
Hemingway describes this scene along the Seine as a display of Paris's natural beauty, with men fishing, boats passing under bridges, and abundant blossoming trees. He reflects on the transitory nature of winter, which brings harsh winds and rain that seem to take away the youthful spirit of the city. He finds it unsettling that spring, a season that always returns, came so close to failing, likening it to an unexplained death of a young person.
Hemingway remembers observing a goat herder selling goat milk to a woman in his apartment building. This sight prompts him to purchase a newspaper focused on morning horseracing, which in turn inspires him to visit the racetrack later that day. Hemingway and his wife make a resolution to use the money he earned from selling a Canadian paper for betting purposes. In the past, his wife had owned a horse named Chevre d'Or, but tragically, the horse fell during a race, resulting in the loss of savings equivalent to six months' rent. Hemingway takes a moment to reflect on his strictness with finances, expressing that one who finds fulfillment in their work is not bothered by poverty.
Hemingway finds it admirable that his wife remains uncomplaining
about the conditions of public bathhouses or the lack of warm clothing. They prepare a meal and bring wine along as they travel by train to the horse track. Throughout the day, the betting prices steadily increase until reaching eighty-five francs for every ten. Hemingway contemplates their situation, acknowledging that they have earned a substantial amount of money, which he considers significant for their needs, especially with the arrival of spring.
After spending another day at the racetrack, the couple indulges in a delicious dinner of oysters and takes a leisurely stroll beneath the Arc de Triomphe. Hemingway poses a question to his wife, wondering if the two arches in Paris align perfectly with the one in Milan. This question triggers memories of their time in Paris with a friend named Chink. Hemingway explains to the reader that Chink was a professional soldier, and whenever he had some time off, he would spend it with the Hemingways. The couple deeply missesChink, as they reminisce about shared experiences in Paris, such as enjoying a fruit cup from Biffi's in the Galleria, visiting parks, and engaging in discussions about wine. Hemingway's wife recalls that she particularly enjoyed conversing with Chink because he treated her as an equal and did not make her feel like just a wife, unlike Gertrude Stein.
As their walk continues and hunger sets in, the couple decides to have a second dinner at Michaud's, a place where James Joyce often dines with his family. Hemingway turns to his wife and remarks, "I'm not sure, Tatie. There are so many different kinds of hunger. In the spring, the hunger seems to intensify. But that's all in the past now. Memory becomes a hunger" . Despite having eaten at Michaud's, they still feel that same hunger they experienced earlier. Hemingway attributes this persistent hunger to what he calls "a false spring".
Hemingway reflects on how his love for horse racing never caused any issues between him and his wife, Hadley. It was only people who could come between them. Nevertheless, Hemingway starts attending races on his own. He mentions that he usually goes to either Auteuil or Enghien, incorporating these races into his routine every season. Hemingway regards horse racing as a "demanding friend" that he tolerates because it can be profitable. He provides detailed instructions
on how to place bets and which horses to bet on. Hemingway describes the experience of watching the horses jump from the top of the stands at Auteuil, monitoring the odds and observing the horse's training progress to anticipate when the stable will make a serious attempt with him. While Hemingway primarily bets on horses he is knowledgeable about, he sometimes takes risks on horses that others have no faith in. He admires the beauty of Auteuil and enjoys getting to know people and horses there. However, over time, he finds that his involvement in the races becomes too time-consuming.
During a walk to deposit his racing funds, Hemingway meets an old friend named Mike Ward. They have lunch together at Louvois square, and Hemingway inquires why Mike never goes to the track. Mike responds by saying that anything one has to bet on to derive pleasure is not worth watching, suggesting bicycle racing as an alternative. Eventually, Hemingway and Mike develop a shared interest in watching bicyclists, but Hemingwayadmits that, for now, he is content with focusing on his work and life in Paris. Despite having started numerous stories about bicycle racing, Hemingway asserts that none of them have been able to capture the same excitement as his horseracing tales. The chapter concludes with Hemingway attempting to convey the essence of the races, noting that the French language is the only one that can truly portray bicycle racing.
Hemingway finds it incredibly challenging to resist the temptation of delicious pastries while being hungry in Paris. The streets are filled with bakeries and people enjoying their meals outside, making it even more torturous for him. To escape this temptation, Hemingway decides to visit the Luxembourg Museum. He believes that studying Cezanne's artwork on an empty stomach allows him to truly appreciate how the landscapes were painted.
While contemplating whether Cezanne also experienced hunger while creating his art, Hemingway concludes that Cezanne's hunger was probably of a different kind. As he walks through Paris, deliberately avoiding all the enticing restaurants and bakeries, Hemingway notices that his hunger becomes contained, and his senses become heightened.
During his walk, Hemingway happens upon a bookshop and strikes up
a conversation with Sylvia. She remarks on his slim figure and extends an invitation to him and his wife for dinner, emphasizing the importance of eating at some point. Before leaving, Sylvia hands Hemingway his mail, which includes a letter from Der Querschnitt, a German publishing company that has sent him his royalties.
Feeling frustrated that his work is only selling well in Germany, Hemingway confides in Sylvia about his concerns. In response, she reassures him that one day he will sell stories to Ford, indicating that his talents will eventually be recognized. Sylvia reminds him that the value of his work goes beyond mere royalties and that he should not lose hope for future success.
Hemingway berates himself for whining to Sylvia about his financial situation. He inwardly criticizes himself, calling himself a hypocritical pretender, both saint and martyr. He reflects on the fact that hunger can enhance one's appreciation of artwork, and muses about the pleasurable experience of eating. Hemingway decides to confront his own stubbornness and chooses to dine at a local café called Lipp's. There, he indulges in a hearty meal, ordering potato salad, sausage, and beer. Memories flood his mind, including the invasion of his Paris apartment and thetheft of his wife's luggage, which contained all his stories. Hemingway recalls how Edward O'Brien published his story "My Old Man" and awarded it as the Best Short Story. After losing his work, Hemingway had reassured O'Brien that he would continue to write stories. He reflects on the irony of now having an abundance of stories but no one to truly grasp their value. This realization prompts him to make a resolution: he will write a novel.
Hemingway describing The Closerie des Lilas, a renowned café in Paris. It was a popular spot frequented by elderly men, often accompanied by their wives or mistresses, who were known for their beards and well-worn clothing. Contrary to its reputation of attracting poets, Hemingway seldom saw poets dining there. Instead, he observed professors, intellectuals, and military personnel. Hemingway held great admiration for those who had endured physical wounds in war, considering them
worthy of respect. At The Closerie des Lilas, there was no preference given to any particular customer; everyone was treated with equal dignity.
On one evening, as Hemingway sat outside on the boulevard, a man approached him. Hemingway recognized him as Ford Madox Ford. Ford invited Hemingway to an event at the Bal Musette. However, Hemingway found Ford to be challenging both in his mannerisms and in conversation. Ford unnecessarily corrected Hemingway about the location of the Bal Musette, despite Hemingway having lived there several years ago. The two engaged in a discussion about the criteria that defined a gentleman, including the act of disregarding individuals who did not meet such standards.
Ford Madox Ford drew attention to himself by making a fuss about his drink order, which caused a scene. As they sat, a man wearing a cape walked by and glanced at their table. Ford claimed this man was Hilaire Belloc, a young writer, and boasted to Hemingway about "cutting" him out of his social circle as well. However, later on, a friend informed Hemingway that the man in the cape was not Belloc but Aleister Crowley, a practitioner of black magic or, in other words, a Satanist.
Hemingway presents a checklist of essential items for effective writing, which includes notebooks with blue covers, a couple of pencils, a sharpener, tables with marble tops, the scent of early mornings, the act of cleaningand organizing, and a stroke of luck. He humorously suggests that luck can be attained by carrying a horse chestnut and a rabbit's foot in one's right pocket. However, Hemingway encounters difficulties when writing in cafes due to the lack of privacy. On a particular afternoon at The Closerie des Lilas, he engages in an altercation with a man who disrupts his focus. Hemingway questions why the man must ruin the pleasant ambiance of the cafe, only to be accused of seeking eccentricity. Hemingway tries to ignore the man and continue writing, but the latter persists in the argument. The man mentions a trip to Greece and asks if he should share the story, but Hemingway dismisses the idea. Frustrated with the man's constant complaints, Hemingway retorts that if he cannot write, he should find a job or even contemplate suicide silently without discussing it. Hemingway sarcastically suggests
that the man should become a critic given his knack for criticizing. Eventually, they decide to have a drink together, during which the man expresses his opinion that Hemingway's work is somewhat austere. Hemingway reflects on how the man never became a critic and concludes that good writing does not depend on luck.
After a long and tiring day, Hemingway heads over to Negre de Toulhouse for his evening meal. Mr. Lavigne, the owner, recognizes Hemingway from seeing him earlier at the Closerie des Lilas and comments that he seemed like a solitary figure in a challenging situation.
Instead of attending the horse races, Hemingway takes a leisurely walk through the streets of Paris. The allure of the races brings to mind the realization that they are not suitable for a married man trying to make a living as a prose writer. Hemingway reflects on the affordability of living in Paris, where one can sustain a good lifestyle on a meager budget by occasionally skipping meals and refraining from buying new clothes, allowing for some savings and occasional indulgences.
While strolling, Hemingway comes across The Dôme and decides to join a table occupied by the artist Pascin and two models. Pascin, who is described as being consistently and purposefully intoxicated, is considered a talented painter by Hemingway. In an uncomfortable moment, Pascin offers Hemingway the chance to sleep with one of the models. Declining the invitation and feeling uneasy, Hemingway quickly makes his exit. Despite Pascin's outward grandiosityand ego, Hemingway prefers to remember him as he saw him that night at The Dôme, especially because Pascin later tragically ended his own life. Hemingway believes that those who use humor and jokes in life often hide a deeper struggle, and that their inner turmoil can be easily overlooked.
In his account, Hemingway introduces Ezra Pound as a writer who, when he produced exceptional work, exhibited flawlessness. Hemingway
viewed Pound as sincere in his mistakes and genuinely enchanted by his errors. Moreover, Pound's kindness towards people left Hemingway with the impression that he was akin to a saint. While Pound enjoyed Japanese art, Hemingway personally favored the paintings of Pound's wife, Dorothy. Hemingway noticed that Pound often displayed admiration for the art of his close friends, a sentiment that Hemingway chose not to openly express. He perceived this affinity for the art of close friends as resembling the way families naturally appreciate one another.
Reflecting on Pound's lack of understanding when it came to boxing, Hemingway recounts an incident where Pound, in the presence of their mutual friend Wyndham Lewis, insisted on having a boxing lesson. Hemingway likened Lewis to a frog, not specifically a bullfrog, but any ordinary frog, and described Paris as a pond too vast for Lewis. Despite Pound's evident lack of talent in boxing, Lewis insisted that they continue the sport. After the match, Hemingway took a closer look at Lewis and noticed that he didn't exude evil, but merely appeared unpleasant. That evening, Hemingway told his wife about encountering the most unpleasant man he had ever seen. During a conversation with Stein, Hemingway inquired if she had ever met Lewis. Stein confirmed that she had, and she referred to him as the Measuring Worm due to his habit of measuring the dimensions of everything he intended to paint, only to completely forget them when creating the actual painting.
Pound established Bel Esprit in collaboration with a wealthy American woman named Miss Natalie Barney, who supported the arts. The primary goal of Bel Esprit was to create a fund through individual contributions, with the intention of helping Mr. Eliot escape his job at a bank in order to focus on writing poetry. Pound expressed concern for T.S. Eliot, who struggled to find time for his poetic pursuits due to his banking obligations in London. Once Bel Esprit achieved success inassisting Eliot, Pound decided to expand its reach to aid other struggling artists as well.
However, the eventual demise of Bel Esprit occurred when Eliot's renowned work, The Waste Land, won the prestigious Dial award. It became evident that he no longer required financial assistance, leading to the discontinuation of the initiative. Hemingway admits that the entire endeavor had negative consequences for him personally, as he received his share of the profits and then proceeded to gamble on horse races.
Hemingway's friendship with Gertrude Stein eventually comes to an end, partially due to his belief that there is limited potential for men to be friends with prominent women, especially ambitious female writers. He acknowledges that such friendships can be pleasant initially, but often fail to evolve or worsen over time.
On one occasion, Miss Stein is departing on a lengthy trip and requests Hemingway and his wife, Hadley, to bid her farewell. Despite having other plans for the evening, Hemingway contemplates the idea of following a "non-visiting" system - agreeing to meet but ultimately not attending the event when the time comes(54). However, Hemingway ultimately decides to make time for Stein regardless.
Anticipating a short visit, Hemingway enters Stein's residence where the maidservant prepares a drink for him. However, he is suddenly startled by a distressing commotion coming from upstairs. Concerned about intruding upon a deeply private and potentially violent argument, Hemingway promptly departs. He reflects, somewhat foolishly, that this incident marked the end of their relationship, even though he still fulfilled minor tasks and made obligatory appearances.
Hemingway notices a notable change in Stein's demeanor following that visit. She engages in quarrels with everyone and appears generally dissatisfied. Over time, everyone grows weary of her bitterness, and Hemingway's connection with her is irreparably altered.
Hemingway recounts the story of Ernest Walsh, a poet characterized as being dark, intense, and representing the quintessential Irish spirit. Walsh crossed paths with Hemingway on a boat, accompanied by two blond girls who accompanied him to Pound's apartment. Hemingway vividly recalls how Walsh's destiny seemed predetermined, as if he were a character in a film who was marked for death.
During their conversation, the girls present Hemingway with a copy of Magazine of Verse, eager for him to read some of Walsh's poems. They inform him that Walsh receives a whopping $1,200 per poem, while Hemingwayponders his own modest earnings of $12 per page. Hemingway promises to show the girls around the various cafes in Paris
as a gesture of gratitude.
The next update Hemingway receives about Walsh comes from Pound, who informs him that Walsh has been rescued from a financial predicament at Claridge's hotel by ardent female admirers of his poetry. Later on, Hemingway learns that Walsh has secured further financial support from another source and will now be working as a co-editor for the revered magazine, Dial. This prestigious periodical awards an annual prize of $1,000 for outstanding contributions to the field of literature.
Hemingway and Walsh meet up at the luxurious Marennes café for lunch. Their conversation revolves around famous writers Pound and Joyce, with both agreeing that Pound is honorable and Joyce is a talented poet. Walsh expresses sadness over Joyce's poor eyesight, to which Hemingway responds by stating that everyone has flaws. Walsh agrees but compliments Hemingway, claiming that he is flawless and destined for greatness.
During their meal, Walsh suddenly informs Hemingway that he is receiving an award. Hemingway, skeptical of Walsh's intentions, thinks to himself about Walsh's ability to profit from his own demise. Hemingway acknowledges that death is looming for Walsh, rather than being a deceptive scheme. Hemingway confesses that he doesn't feel deserving of an award, cleverly playing on their shared first name "Ernest" and his belief that Walsh has been lacking in sincerity.
Unfortunately, Walsh is eventually forced to leave Paris due to two hemorrhages, and Hemingway takes on the responsibility of ensuring the publication of the magazine. Much later, Hemingway meets Joyce on Boulevard St-Germain, and they enjoy a drink at the Deux-Magots café. Joyce reveals that Walsh had promised him the same award and they ponder whether Walsh made similar promises to Ezra Pound.
Hemingway contemplates the various writing styles of authors found in Sylvia's library, including Turgenev, Mansfield, and Tolstoi. When discussing Dostoevsky, Hemingway acknowledges the presence of both unbelievable and profoundly true elements in his work, emphasizing the juxtaposition of facility and madness, wickedness and saintliness. Regarding Tolstoi, Hemingway compares his writing on the Civil War to
the vivid imagination of a sick young boy who had only read about battles, chronicles, and viewed photographs. Hemingway describes the access to such literature as a valuable treasure given to him.
After a game of tennis, Hemingway expresses his curiosity toPound about his thoughts on Dostoevsky. Surprisingly, Pound admits to never having read any Russian authors. Hemingway feels disappointed that the person he admires as a writer and critic cannot provide an informed opinion on Dostoevsky. On his way back home from Pound's place, Hemingway stops by the sawmill where Evan Shipman resides. The sawmill owner's wife informs Hemingway that Shipman is currently out with friends. Leaving a note, Hemingway notifies Shipman of his presence at the Lilas and asks him to join him there.
Upon reaching the Lilas, Hemingway spots Shipman patiently waiting for him. He characterizes Shipman as a talented poet with a deep interest in horses, writing, and painting. Shipman draws attention to Hemingway's attire, remarking that he is not properly dressed for the fall weather. Inquisitive, Hemingway questions how Dostoevsky managed to convey such profound feelings in his poorly executed writing. The two engage in a conversation about the challenges of translating Dostoevsky's works and the unique experience of reading them only once.
Shipman discloses that the café is undergoing a management change, leading to a shift in the waiters' roles. They are expected to adopt a more American style, which involves wearing white jackets and shaving off their mustaches. Hemingway brings up the fact that Jean, one of the waiters, has sported a mustache all his life, which holds significance as a symbol of a dragoon's military service. When Jean offers them more whisky, Hemingway urges him not to remove his mustache. The following Monday, upon returning to the Lilas, Hemingway discovers Andre, another waiter, donning a white jacket and a bare upper lip after shaving his mustache.
As Ezra Pound departs from rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs to Rapallo, he entrusts Hemingway with a jar of opium, specifically instructing him to only administer it to Ralph Cheever Dunning when necessary. Dunning is described as a poet who indulges in opium and often forgets to eat.
Pound had acquired this opium at a bar called the Old Hole in the Wall, frequented by deserters and drug peddlers during and after the first World War. It is left to Hemingway's discretion when to provide Dunning with the opium, and an urgent situation arises shortly thereafter.
Ezra's concierge visits the sawmill and discovers Dunning perched on the rooftop. By the time Hemingway reaches the rooftop, Dunning has already returned to his room. Nevertheless, Hemingway offers him the jarof opium, but Dunning angrily throws it back at him. However, the poets recommended by Pound come to Dunning's aid. Reflecting on the incident, Hemingway wonders if Dunning disliked him or mistook him for some sinister agent. A few years later, Hemingway discusses Dunning with Evan Shipman. Shipman suggests that the mystery surrounding Dunning's poetry should be preserved because "the writers who lack ambition and the truly exceptional unpublished poems are what we need most in these times."
In the opening of this chapter, Hemingway employs an italicized paragraph to convey the notion that recognizing one's own talent is akin to observing the intricate patterns left by dust on the wings of a butterfly. This awareness brings to mind the realization of one's own flaws or limitations, and a yearning for the effortless freedom one experienced in the past.
Hemingway recollects the evening when he first encounters Scott Fitzgerald. Fitzgerald enters the Dingo bar where Hemingway is having a drink, accompanied by Dunc Chaplin, the renowned pitcher from Princeton. Hemingway provides a physical description of Fitzgerald, highlighting his fair and wavy hair, high forehead, lively and friendly eyes, and a delicate Irish mouth that, if on a woman, would be considered beautiful. As the three share a bottle of champagne, Hemingway feels uneasy while Fitzgerald endlessly praises his writing. Hemingway closely observes Fitzgerald as he continues speaking. Eventually, Fitzgerald moves on to asking questions, believing that novelists can benefit from direct inquiries to their friends and acquaintances. One such query posed by Fitzgerald is whether Hemingway had an affair with his wife before they got married. Hemingway claims he cannot recall, which astonishes Fitzgerald. Urging
Hemingway to make a sincere effort to remember, Fitzgerald's face suddenly stiffens, he turns pale, and his eyes become sunken. Dunc assures Hemingway that Fitzgerald is alright, and the two of them depart.
A few days later, Hemingway encounters Fitzgerald at the Closerie des Lilas and expresses his apologies for the previous incident when they drank together. Fitzgerald appears surprised and clarifies that he left because he became weary of the British company, dismissing any need for mysteries or secrets arising from their alcohol consumption. Hemingway is taken aback by Fitzgerald altering every detail from the previous night, right down to his tie. Deciding to let it go, they change the topic of conversation. Fitzgerald modestly suggests that Hemingway read his new book, TheGreat Gatsby, and invites him to retrieve his car in Lyon, which he and Zelda had left due to inclement weather. Hemingway agrees, believing that spending time with an older writer would benefit his own craft. The next morning, Hemingway hops on the train, only to discover that Fitzgerald is not on board. Reflecting on this new experience, Hemingway notes, "I had never heard, then, of a grown man missing a train; but on this trip I was to learn many new things." Hemingway proceeds to Lyon, where he tries and fails to locate Fitzgerald. He has dinner with a man who eats fire and later returns to his hotel. The following morning, Fitzgerald finally arrives.
After having breakfast together, Hemingway and Fitzgerald ask the hotel to prepare a packed lunch for their road trip. Hemingway notices that Fitzgerald's car doesn't have a roof, which he learns is because Zelda, Fitzgerald's wife, doesn't like cars with tops. Despite the risk of rain, Fitzgerald refuses to have the top replaced. As they continue their journey, they are frequently interrupted by sporadic bouts of rain. Fitzgerald expresses his worries about having congested lungs and mentions that the disease is spreading in Europe. He asks Hemingway if they can stop at the next town before he succumbs to fever and delirium. They eventually arrive at a hotel, and Fitzgerald immediately goes to bed. Hemingway realizes that Fitzgerald has convinced himself that he is dying from lung congestion. Despite Hemingway's attempts to convince him otherwise, Fitzgerald insists on using a thermometer to check his temperature. Hemingway grows frustrated, both with Fitzgerald and himself for getting involved in this silliness. The waiter returns empty-handed as the drug stores are closed. After more protests
from Fitzgerald, the waiter finally brings a bath thermometer. When Hemingway successfully convinces Fitzgerald that he is not dying, Fitzgerald shares a sad story about Zelda falling in love with another man.
Upon returning to Paris, Hemingway takes his wife out to dinner and reflects on the lessons he learned from his trip with Fitzgerald. He tells his wife that he has learned never to travel with someone you do not love. Finally, Hemingway reads The Great Gatsby and concludes that Fitzgerald, the author of such a remarkable novel, deserves all the compassion and understanding he can give.
Fitzgerald extends an invitation to Hemingway and Hadley to have lunchtogether, along with his wife Zelda and their daughter. However, Zelda is suffering from a severe hangover, and Fitzgerald confesses that he intends to cut down on his drinking. Zelda criticizes him for being a spoilsport, and Hemingway describes her as aggressive and possessing certain physical features indicative of a hawk. Zelda justifies her behavior by suggesting that if Hemingway and Fitzgerald can have fun, so can she. Hemingway soon becomes aware that Zelda does not support Fitzgerald's writing and is envious of the time he spends working instead of being with her. Fitzgerald blames their marital issues on Paris and dreams of relocating with Zelda to the Riviera. Fearing that Zelda might become involved with someone else, Fitzgerald feels compelled to accompany her to social events. Hemingway explains how this turbulent dynamic negatively impacted Fitzgerald's writing.
As the summer goes by and Hemingway and Hadley return from their trip to Spain, Hemingway completes the initial manuscript for The Sun Also Rises. However, upon reuniting with Fitzgerald, Hemingway realizes that his companion is constantly drunk. Despite sharing a later version of the manuscript with Fitzgerald, Hemingway does not desire or trust his assistance.
Fitzgeral invites Hemingway and Hadley to visit him and Zelda in Juan-les-Pins, assuring them that he won't drink. Although The Great Gatsby had been adapted into a play, Fitzgerald could not afford to treat the couple to a vacation. Hemingway recalls that everything appeared tranquil in Juan-les-Pins, mainly because Zelda's hawk-like eyes seemed
clear and composed. Zelda discloses a secret to Hemingway, comparing the greatness of Al Jolson to that of Jesus in a manner reminiscent of a hawk sharing something with a man. Hemingway reflects on the fact that Fitzgerald only produced meaningful work when he finally acknowledged Zelda's "insanity".
Following Zelda's initial breakdown, Fitzgerald arranges a lunch meeting with Hemingway at Michaud's restaurant. He confides in Hemingway, revealing that he has only been intimate with Zelda throughout their marriage. Furthermore, Zelda once claimed that Fitzgerald would never be able to satisfy another woman due to certain physical attributes. Hemingway offers reassurance, assuring Fitzgerald that he is perfectly adequate. He advises Fitzgerald to study the statues at the Louvre and then examine himself in the mirror, implying that Zelda's comments were manipulative and meant to harm him. Fitzgerald departs to meet acquaintances at the Ritz bar.
Many years later, after World War II, thechief bartender at the Ritz, Georges, approaches Hemingway to inquire about a certain Monsieur Fitzgerald everyone asks him about. Hemingway reminisces that Fitzgerald was an American writer from the early 1920s who wrote two exceptional books and one complex work that had the potential to be great. Hemingway mentions his intention to include some insights about Fitzgerald in a book about the early days in Paris.
Hemingway reflects on the challenging circumstances of being poverty-stricken during a winter in Paris, particularly with the presence of their child, Bumby. Due to their financial constraints, they couldn't afford a nanny, so their cat, F. Puss, acted as a guardian for Bumby while Hemingway and Hadley attended work or ran errands. In order to escape the cold, the family decides to relocate to Austria. Hemingway describes how Schruns provided a healthy environment for Bumby, with a dark-haired, beautiful girl who would take him out in the sun on his sleigh and
look after him. Hemingway and Hadley seize the opportunity to take skiing lessons and enjoy the abundance of books they have borrowed from Sylvia Beach's library. Hemingway also engages in poker games with the men, while the maid diligently delivers a delightful breakfast every morning. Schruns proves to be an excellent working environment for Hemingway, as he undergoes the most demanding revision of his life and transforms the manuscript of "The Sun Also Rises" into a full-length novel. They remain in Austria from Thanksgiving until Easter.
Hemingway reflects on a tragic year marked by numerous avalanche-related deaths. The first incident involves a group of Germans who visit during Christmas vacation. Despite warnings from Herr Lent, the skiing instructor, regarding unsafe conditions due to the powdery and loosely packed snow from the previous day, the Germans insist on skiing. Tragically, an avalanche occurs as they descend the mountain, resulting in the loss of nine out of the thirteen men. Hemingway vividly recalls the distressing scene of the last survivor being rescued from the snow, with his neck exposed down to the tendons and bone. Additionally, Hemingway recounts various encounters, such as porters demanding more money than agreed upon, locals referring to him as the "Black Christ," and observing a fox hunting in the picturesque winter landscape. He also discusses the different types of snow, reminiscing about the various dangers they posed while skiing. As spring approaches,Hemingway describes the exhilarating experience of gliding down the smooth and straight paths of the great glacier run.
The year of the avalanches seems mild compared to the subsequent winter and summer when the affluent individuals flock to Schruns. The first to arrive is the scout, who thoroughly investigates the hotel and skiing routes ahead of the wealthy guests. This scout is never caught, and it is only those who trust him that fall into unfortunate circumstances and meet their demise. He possesses a unique set of skills acquired during an unconventional upbringing and a deeply suppressed desire for wealth. The wealthy individuals place their trust in this scout, finding him to be bashful, amusing, and elusive, while also being productive.
Hemingway gradually begins to trust these new wealthy visitors and becomes captivated by their belief that each day should be a celebration. He goes as far as sharing a portion of his novel with them, an act that is riskier for a writer than skiing without any protective
measures. Hemingway recounts the tale of another affluent family, in which their young and beautiful daughter causes turmoil in the household of a married couple.
Eventually, Hemingway is compelled to leave Schruns and travel to New York to renegotiate his publishing arrangements. He stays there for an extended period but eventually returns to Paris, where his love, Hadley, and their son eagerly await his arrival. This homecoming symbolizes the conclusion of the "first part of Paris," as Hemingway acknowledges that Paris is ever-changing and one cannot help but evolve alongside it.